What do we frame?
We frame posters and prints, original artworks, photographs, paintings, drawings, score cards, sheet music..... whatever you want to display!We also frame needlework and tapestries. We do not staple these, we use stainless steel pins to position the work, and then lace them across the back to hold in place.
We frame memorabilia and other 3 dimensional objects. This includes footy jumpers, medals, toys, artifacts, jewellery etc.
Have a look at our gallery for some examples.
Canvas stretching
Art on canvas needs to be stretched over a stretcher frame.
The canvas is wrapped over the sides of this specially shaped wood and stapled onto the back. If the artist hasn't left enough spare canvas around the outside of the picture, the painting might need to be stapled on the sides of the wood to avoid losing some of the picture. It generally does not need to be covered by glass.
However a standard frame can then be fitted around this if required.
An alternative style of frame designed for stretched canvas, is called the Float Frame.
Float frame
A float frame is a special "L" shaped moulding made to enhance a stretched canvas, (when it is not being covered by glass). A float frame does not overlap the edge of the painting, but sits behind and around the edge, often leaving a space between the frame and the painting - so the painting appears to be floating within the frame.
Below is a side view describing the method.
Styles
There are no real framing design rules, however there are trends and styles which enhance the presentation. A custom framer will use their experience to choose a look that best suits the work being framed. Good framing is dependent on many factors, including where it is to be hung, the style and colour of the room, and on individual tastes. However, more importantly, the framing must enhance the artwork itself. The frame and colouring is a major element and should be used to complement a piece, not to take over.There are no magic formulas for deciding how wide a mat or frame should be, but it is better to choose wider spaces, as it gives the eye somewhere to rest, between the picture and frame. Small borders give the impression of a picture being squeezed into a frame that is too small.
Framing Glossary
Acid-free framing
Inferior framing materials can cause permanent damage to photographs and artwork. Brown stains (acid-burn) around the edges of the artwork are caused by acids from the breakdown of the mat board. Poor quality backing material can cause dark spots (foxing) to eventually appear on the artwork.
We use acid-free materials for all of our standard framing.
Standard acid-free mats and backing materials are "buffered"
(calcium carbonate is applied to the raw product during manufacture) to
slow down the effects of change in pH over time.
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Archival framing
This is used for the most valuable items, such as original
artworks, limited edition prints, historical documents or historical
items. Archival framing uses rag mat, reversable attachment methods,
acid-free and lignen-free foam core backing, barrier papers and UV
filtering glass. While archival quality materials may look the same as
lesser materials, the true difference becomes readily apparent in later
years. We will work with you to explain the various picture framing
choices available, along with the cost factors involved with each
choice.
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Giclee
This is a relatively new term for art reproduced (printed) on art paper, heavy water-colour paper, or canvas. Due to improvements in technologies, extremely fine droplets of ink can be controlled by the computer so that the resolution of the printed image is much finer than conventional printing.
Good quality giclees have a predicted life of 85 to 90 years
indoors without any noticeable fading. A modern trend is for
giclees on canvas to be stretched over a stretcher frame and
hung without glass or external frame.
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Glazing
Choose from clear glass, non-reflective glass, UV filtering glass, or acrylic. The standard glass used is 2mm clear float glass. If you are hanging your picture where there will be light from nearby windows, interior lights etc. then you should consider using anti-reflective glass. While this inhibits the reflections on the surface, it offers no protection from fading.
Exposure to ultra violet light is the most common cause of colour fading. Using acrylic instead of glass, will cut some of these damaging rays. Acrylic looks similar to glass, but is more flexible, and less likely to crack or break. It is also much lighter than glass, so is well suited to large artworks.
However, if your artwork has major conservation requirements
then we recommend the use of conservation glass which blocks 99% of UV.
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Matboards
These are the paper/rag mats that form a border around your art. Besides presenting a visual border between the artwork and the frame, matboards are also important because they keep the glass from touching the artwork or photograph. Matboards are higher (thicker) than the item being framed, so the glass sits against these, rather than touching your photo/art. Without this small space for the air to circulate over your picture, humidity will cause a photograph to stick to the glass, or mould will begin to grow on the art. In hot or humid conditions, mould may eventually form on the matboard (where the glass is against the surface). This is an indication that it is time to have the framing package taken apart and cleaned, and the mat replaced.
Exposure to ultra violet light also causes the breaking down
of the chemical bonds within paper, and other materials. This is
largely due to "lignin", which is a natural product found in paper made
from wood pulp. Over time, lignin will eventually turn acidic and
accelerate deterioration. Today's standard "buffered acid free"
matboards and foam core backing offer some protection from this
deterioration. However, if your artwork has major conservation
requirements then we recommend the use of ragboard (100% cotton), and
lignin free foam core backing.
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